But it was the over skirt that really got me stuck, I went through 3 versions before I was finally happy.
The problem is that my white material is very heavy and didn't want to drape gently but rather plummet aggressively toward the floor pulling very gentle fold out and causing the whole piece to get caught up in my feet when walking.
So the second iteration was to set the panel in wide pleats. While this prevented the previous problem I hated the look.
So I want back to the original idea and rather then just gather the outside edges I added an additional gather line to the dead center. This helped hold the gentle folds in place and gave the look I had in my head. I just added the little smooth strip down the front to hide the stitches.
I got the idea while looking at fashion plates and noticed that many of the very long gathered overskirts had a center line like I had created probably for the same purpose :)